Model walk on the ramp for Dev R Nil at Kolkata Fashion Week Day 4 on 5th April 2009. KOLKATA FASHION WEEK DAY – 4 5th April, 2009 2 PM The Weaves And Textiles Of Bengal. Bengal has a rich tradition and history of textile and weaves the most prominent of which are Tangail, Gamcha, Aari, Dhuti, Garad, Jamdaani, Kantha and Baluchari.
The Tanti or weaver still works on an indigenous weaving machines run by hand and foot. Common traditions say that the weaver community as a functional group developed under the pressure of the natural demand for the woven cloth. Elaborate descriptions of their life and work are found in the Charyapada, an ancient text in Bangla language from the 8th-10th century AD. Some of these early fabrics such as moner mata, snigdha, dukul, patronnada, khowma etc are also founded listed in Kautilya’s Arthashastra
Historically cotton, the chief source of woven textile was produced abundantly in Bengal. During the first century AD, Dhaka muslin became famous in Rome and was highly prized. Weaves of Bengal were noted for their fineness of texture, beauty of design, intricacy of weave, lightness of weight, and durability. Tantis also produced many different types of fabric for daily use, most of which were coarse and cheap. The finer weaves are now rare in a tanti’s workshop and they survive in the profession primarily by weaving daily wear for the mass. The influx of cheap manufactured clothes have forced many tantis to take other livelihoods as secondary sources of subsistence and many others, have even left the occupation.
3.30 PM
Gauri & Nainika
Inspired by anything beautiful, Gauri and Nainika have always had an extremely feminine and romantic design philosophy with styles that are luxurious yet understated.
With a strong emphasis on fabric cut & colour, the designs are all about shape and flattering silhouettes. By combining tailoring with drapery, the garments are meticulously crafted and have a timeless appeal where old world charm, fantasy and elegance are brought up to date. Femininity forms the essence of the collection with styles that signify youth, glamour and sophistication.
5 PM
Cue By Rohit Gandhi – Rahul Khanna
For Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna this season belongs to the neo gothic, romantic women clad in textured velvets, sequins and laces. The men discard grunge and revert to impeccably tailored velvets and bottom weight tweeds.
Aesthetics that is no different from their foundation of straight line clothing, sharp silhouettes that retain the very basic elements of style and quality, keeping in mind the increasing demand for western wear in India.
7 PM
Dev r Nil
Known to play with beautiful textiles, subtle surface texturing and classic cuts they are the Boys of Bengal carrying the Indian Fashion story forward. Boldly defying norms of fashion in India, they have an eye for detail, as well as an unusual colour palette and cut, creating what they like to call ‘the wardrobe from the east.’
Through ‘Charulata’s opera glass’ Dev r Nil envisage a graphic that is replete with childish naiveté bathed in illusory haze.
Cutwork, appliqué and embroideries of thread and Japanese glass beads on very basic weaves settle into distinctive body shapes, a true chiaroscuro of structure and fluidity.
8.30 PM
Rohit Bal
The Indian master of fashion and fantasy, he started his career with his brother in 1986, and started his own first independent collection in 1990.
Intensely concerned with design as an art form, he draws upon history, fantasy and folklore to create his masterpieces. His sense of aesthetics is finely honed, and each of his creations is handcrafted to perfection, with meticulous attention to detail.
